Building a Table for All: The Ascent of Queer Food Culture

The New York Times
Thursday, Jun 21, 2018
Guests ate Open Face Killa bagels at a BLK Palate event in January at Holyrad Studio in Brooklyn.

There was something in the air at Queer Soup Night on a recent Sunday in Gowanus, Brooklyn. Something beyond the alluring aroma of soup from a handful of local chefs. Tides of garlic from Woldy Reyes’s chicken sotanghon, a Filipino favorite, mingled with the kick of smoked tofu from Xzherieh Niquae’s take on split pea, cut through with lime from Holly Sheppard’s pozole.

But there was something else — an energy. “There’s a moment, there’s a thing, it’s happening, it’s real,” said Liz Alpern, 33, the founder of this near-monthly gathering that kicked off, coincidentally, the weekend of travel ban protests at Kennedy Airport in January 2017.